A taste of India at the Spice Room

All Photos: MONIKA DEUPALA

Kathmandu does not lack good Indian restaurants, but latest addition at Hotel Yak & Yeti’s Spice Room presents what we have been missing: carefully curated multicourse meals that take you on a delicious culinary adventure, one that commands your attention.

The newly opened eatery is a successor to the hotel’s 42-year-old Sunrise Restaurant, but unlike its predecessor’s Indian buffet-style meals, Spice Room is a proud fine-dining restaurant that takes the à la carte route.

With table settings that change according to meal times, copper pots lined on shelves as decoration, a reddish-orange gradient cloth wall and large windows that give diners a view of green lawns and the Lal Darbar, Spice Room is unapologetically upscale.

The Murgh Kali Mirch Ka Shorba, a thin soup with a strong chickeny flavour and spiced with tellicherry peppercorns, is a fantastic start to the meal. Servers carefully pour the soup with a stainless steel teapot on the shallow clay bowl peppered with slices of fried and aromatic garlic garnishes -- adding a performance aspect to the generally simple dish.

Although an Indian restaurant, the menu heavily favours northern flavours which peek through the extensive list of tandoori dishes, nan, roti and chapati.

The chef recommended Masala Ojhari, a Punjabi spiced pork belly served on a roti. The rich dish can be overwhelming on its own, but with a good squeeze of lemon, the acid cuts through the fat and brings out the sweetness of the tomato masala. But while the meat is soft and tender, a crunchy element is missing, an aspect that Chef Arindam Bahel is trying to bring to the dish in the future.

And no visit to an Indian restaurant is complete without biryani and the Pardanashi Murgh Biryani, cooked dum-style, stays true to its traditional form. Alternate between bites of the mildly spiced Murgh Peshawari Lababdar, a chicken dish stuffed with minced chicken and covered in a house blend spiced sauce, and the classic no nonsense creamy Butter Chicken as you go through the earthen clay pot of the biryani.

South Indian flavours too, make an appearance on the menu through the seafood dishes like the Shrimp Moilee and Crab Chatpata. In the Karavali Shrimp, the heat of peppercorns and spices pair well with the coconut cream and tangy turmeric sauce and crunchy salad.

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The fine dining adventure continues with an exciting assortment of Indian influenced dessert. The Trio of Kulfi, which the chef advises strongly to eat in the order of chilli and black salt infused Guava, lychee and pistachio Khuwa Barfi, is a refined version of childhood on a plate.

For those that love desserts but despise sweets, the Lychee Chilli Mousse is perfect. The lychee mousse, suffused with spices like cinnamon has a mild heat that appears after a couple bites.

The Mishti Doi, a baked yogurt topped with a tangy berry compote, is a creamy dessert that rivals even the beloved Bhaktapur juju dhau.

The official inauguration of Spice Room is on 4 February, marking the end of their collaboration with Cancer Care Nepal. Spice Room is donating Rs200 per bill from 30 January-4 February to the organisation.

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