MARCO POLLO

Typical of upscale dining in Kathmandu, a 13% value-added tax (VAT) on top of a 10% service charge makes for a distasteful surprise at the end of an already high-priced meal. But at Délices de France in Thamel, surcharges are indicated in parentheses by the dish, allowing patrons to dodge embarrassment and make allowances. Nepal's politicos could learn a lesson or two from Délice owner and restaurateur Christine Régnier, whose menu is dedicated to transparency and wholesomeness.

On the gamut of international cuisine, the mild flavours and delicate nuances of French cookery slump in comparison to the piquant and punch of its southern counterparts, but trump as a celebration of the purity of food. A proper degustation at Délices requires a thorough tongue bath to capture the delicate explorations of standard Provençale faire.

Délices's emphasis on quality renders a symphony of full-bodied notes, where mixed greens actually taste green. The Mediterranean platter (priced as a main course) serves a savory medley of tapenades and crostinis atop a bed of crisp leaves and toasted nuts: dollops of chicken liver mousse and aubergine caviar, shaves of Parma ham, and a pillow of goat cheese.

Carnivores will find the filet de boeuf grilled to a perfect medium-rare (as it should be), served simply with roasted potatoes and an essential cuillère of Dijon mustard. For sweets, the Whirl of Delights is a passable sample of four of its classic desserts (chocolate fondue, carrot ka halwa, banana gratin, pineapple cake) and a fifth Nepali-French fusion of apple momo laced in crème anglaise.

Red walls, dotted with conventional black and white prints of the French landscape, and matching utilitarian table settings offer a modern backdrop. And live gypsy jazz on Saturday nights adds a romantic flare.

Délices de France is a far cry from the gastronomic splendour of Babette's Feast, but hosts a reliable board of French delights at honest prices.

Marco Pollo

Walking up towards the Kathmandu Guesthouse in Thamel, stop left at the Ganesh Man Singh building and ascend to the second floor.