Best food forward in Sanepa

It has neither starched tablecloths, nor peaky napkins. But the air of haute cuisine is deftly conjured in the food that is served at Chimes, and in the attention of those who present it.

This new restaurant in Sanepa has guests returning again and again, not just for the excellent food and impeccable service but for its relaxed atmosphere, sophisticated background jazz, the occasional live music and event lineups and its many taste experiments.

“The closest we come to fine dining is dining fine,” says VK Kunwor, who runs the restaurant with Shikhar Pandey and TJ Limbu. They met in 2015 and collaborated successfully on a casual eatery in Thamel, but always wanted a focus on good food.

During their recce of establishments in the city, they found many venues focussed on music or events, drinks or vibe, but the food seemed to lag as a secondary consideration. Pandey is a foodie and both Kunwor and Limbu are chefs, the latter freshly back from the UK.

Chimes is nestled entirely in a garden setting, surrounded by low-rise buildings a stone’s throw from busy Sanepa Chok, evoking the ambience of an convent establishment with the same name (but not spelling) in Singapore. French, Asian, Nepali or American food, the fundamental focus here is the kitchen’s operation and ingredients. For staff, the experience at Chimes is akin to working to international standards, a rarity in the Kathmandu hospitality industry.

When the food comes, it is a treat. The Guacamole and Paneer is a delight to the tastebuds, comprising elements of sweet and salty, creamy and crunchy, and grounded by a herb pesto and the subtle earthiness of perfectly roasted potatoes. This dish seeks to delight with every bite.

Then come Chimes’ Chicken Momos. Momos can be a little ‘gluggy’, thick-skinned and drenched in sauce. Not here. These are thin-skinned and silky, and Limbu takes pride in the four condiments they serve with their bamboo basket of deliciously hot and succulent dumplings smeared with house made sambal. For someone with an acutely Southeast Asian palate, it is sublime. It is a taste of home.

No surprise then that TJ Limbu grew up in Singapore. Along with more sambal, pickled green chillies, roasted chili in oil as well as Chimes’ own tomato based momo sauce, you get to taste dumplings 10 different ways. Also presented is the caramelised Pork Belly, a popular main. Succulent and tender, it is slow cooked with reams of fat and juicy meat intact and buttery, with zero gristle.

Basted in a sweet and sticky sauce, the pork is accompanied by salted buttered bok choy, jus, caramelised cabbage and a mash puree, which complement the meat. I could have done with a bit more acid in the dish, but it’s a small slight, considering the very tender, tasty pork. The jus is just nice in flavour, light and tasty, not heavy, and the dish is finished with a garnish of rose petals, microgreens and flecks of roasted chili.

Unbeknownst to many who may subscribe to its delivery service via Bhokmandu, Chimes also presents stay-at-home gourmands with good food delivered to the door till 2am. The menu is understandably distinct, and at a lower price point, but just as excellent in quality, if the samples are anything to go by.

Chicken rice that tastes like the chicken rice in Singapore, and curry puffs that rival my mother’s own (the very best). The thought given to the delivery dishes is as well conceived in terms of what types of food travel well and are cheaper to create without compromising on taste.

Chimes has somehow managed to source a biodegradable cornstarch-based container that is sturdy enough for reuse, unlike the monstrous aluminium/cardboard/plastic hybrids that takeaways are usually carted in here. Toss in the use of fruits and herbs from its garden, and it is obvious that Chimes certainly knows how to get things right.

With its singular take on ‘dining fine’, the restaurant is seeking to up the ante on good flavours, and challenging as well as indulging those with fussy tastebuds.