The lake, mountain and rivers are revered by the Hindu, Buddhist, Bon and Jain faiths. Hindus try to make a once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage to Mt Kailash, but inaccessibility makes it hard.
One morning in late September, as an orange lozenge of a sun rose from behind the mountains, Indian pilgrims chanted prayers to Shiva on the shores of Lake Mansarovar.
We had arrived here from Kathmandu via Kerung, riding west on the Tibetan Plateau along the Brahmaputra, admiring the rare view of the Nepali Himalaya from the north: Ganesh, Manaslu, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri.
Part 3: Climate denial in the Himalaya
Part 4: Dancing with the river
Part 5: A Karnali portrait
Our mission was to explore Nepal’s longest river from its source in Tibet, through Humla to Kailali in Nepal, and then into Uttar Pradesh and Bihar in India where the river joins the Ganga.