This one’s a real tuckaway, and perhaps one that deserves to remain so, if only for the continued patronage of those who’ve discovered it through dint of cultured curiosity. Hint: it’s above the Fuji Bakery and you’d be forgiven (though hungry) for retreating after opening the door to the sight of fine textiles on racks. Which they also sell, along with a fine selection of pan-Asian and continental dishes.

Try the Greek Taramo for starters, if you like (and you should like) smoked salmon and salmon pate on bread. If you feel a little bolder, lively up the Newar in you and order a few slices of rare buff to boot, as much of a riposte to carpaccio as kachila is to steak tartare. For the mains, to the strains of opera-lite, you have a choice of cutlets and steaks and what better to wash it all down than good old Star Beer, of tasty 7.5% vintage? My companion figured the plum soda was better, and she preferred the salad to her fatty pork, but we both rolled out feeling beery, and porky, and well done.