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Archive for November, 2008

 

Hotel Kathmandu

A walk about town earlier this year on the sixth day of the southern strikes that closed the Valley down, snapping posters of Prachanda-for-President, ‘victims’ of the US Embassy’s DV immigration scheme, the ruins of the old Malpi College and the abandoned Hotel Kathmandu, the funky fusion of the Jhiljhile Kumari temple, crumbling Krishna Pauroti […]


Nagdaha Buzz

A limber out of the dustbowl across the river from Dhapakhel led us to Nagdaha, another body of water surrounded by low terraces of green and yellow, another pocket of peace that couldn’t help but remind us of Taudaha-by-Chobhar. Part of the pond sectioned off as a patch of grassy wetland where waddled wild ducks […]


Who's Nhuchhe?

Listing to interminable, reactionary rambles on the quagmire of Nepali politics, I sit shrouded in my own darkness, list in the flickering flames we draw on, amused only by the idea that this Baluwatar space, once most likely the seat of a minor noble in Rana times, also served as the headquarters of the royalist […]


Conversations with women

A conversation overhead (as I stopped, amused, opposite the tailor’s shop off New Road where, in big bold white on red a sign sums up in English and Nepali what clients should expect: Humour) Lady (with long protruding teeth): haina haat haalera najiskinus na bhanya. Leda (nondescript): ey ke bho ta ni Lady: aimai sanga […]


Manjushree galchhedo

Millennia have washed past since Manjushree cleft the valley with his flaming sword but it was only last winter I made my way to Chobhar, dropping onto the ringroad to Kirtipur through a forgotten side road out of Sanepa. Except for the burgeoning numbers of concrete residences spilling out the centre and filling up all […]


On the bhatti trail

Fresh from the Gokyo trail, alternating between explications of myself (to bemused locals) and my country (to curious phareners), the latter peppered with exhortations to try the tongba! the chhyaang! – imagine my indignation once we’d twistered ourselves around a mini-table on the rooftop of the Anacha bhatti to be told yes, we’d get our […]


 

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